Rosé wine has conquered the world because it has changed its complexion. Thanks to the leadership of Régine Sumeire and the astonishing success of her Pétale de Rose cuvées, rosé has freed itself from the stifling codes and stereotypes of the wine world. Thanks to its ever-increasing quality, rosé has seduced new generations of connoisseurs, including many women who now prefer the wine’s pale and evanescent colors. As the head of both the Château la Tour de l’Evêque and the Château Barbeyrolles vineyards, she has become the standard-bearer for a convivial new form of gastronomy where rosé has earned its rightful place on the table. Profoundly respectful of the classic growing techniques and the rhythms of nature, this dynamic woman known as “Madame de Barbeyrolles” is the proud guardian of her family’s traditions. She sees it as her duty to continue to develop her legendary vineyards and to share her devotion to Provence and its glorious wines.
Régine Sumeire believes wisdom and substance are the foundation of good taste. As proof that this Provençal native has cultivated a successful philosophy, her famed Pétale de Rose rosé has turned the wine world upside down by transforming these pale pink wonders from a simple aperitif or pool-side drink to honorable wines that are found on the world’s finest tables. Régine’s life is divided between the 75 hectares of the Château de la Tour de l’Evêque, a property located on the slopes of the Maurettes hills, and the 12 hectares of Château Barbeyrolles, a magnificent, lavish estate that borders the community of Gassin.
“I bought this property in 1977,” says Régine. “After many visits all over the region, I fell in love with Barbeyrolles, which was a total ruin at the time.” As soon as she saw the estate, she could sense that the manor house and the vines could become a veritable paradise with enough hard work. Now, 43 years later, it is evident that her magnificent vision has been fulfilled.
As a host who is genuinely concerned about the happiness of her visitors, Régine gives a special owner’s tour, with a focus on the vineyard. “It’s been maintained according to the principles of biodynamic agriculture since 2009,” she explains. “We have always worked in harmony with nature; it’s tradition, it’s self-evident. In bygone times, organic methods were the only way to work the land.” It is no surprise she feels this deep connection to traditional practices; she is the daughter and granddaughter of winegrowers, and she studied history along with political science and Spanish. One example of these practices is her commitment to the manual harvest. “This is essential in the production of rosé and white wines, which are pressed in whole bunches,” she notes.
For Régine, it is difficult to overstate the importance of vineyards. “Wine is a proof of civilization,” she explains. “It is interesting that in ancient times, the Greeks and Egyptians produced wines without maceration, so they could only have been rosés. And now, at the end of the 20th century, the Spanish, Italians, and Greeks were accentuating the idea of wine as a principle of civilization.” And here in France? “At the same time, they voted in the Loi Évin (to restrict alcohol advertising),” she thunders without losing the slightest bit of her elegance.
When it comes to personal taste, Régine admits she prefers complex rosés. “I enjoy delicate wines with length and finish that can accompany a meal,” she says. “I like the idea that if tasted blind, a rosé would be difficult to distinguish from a white.” Surprisingly, she is not as concerned with the bouquet, instead focusing on the belief that wines should tell the story of their land and culture. Her Pétale de Rose rosé, which was first imagined in 1982, has a clear color, and this initially led the wine to be treated as an intruder in the world of darker pink rosés. Now, that’s all in the past and pale rosés are celebrated, although Régine notes that “the color must be extracted without brusqueness or treatment.”
Many of the loyal clients of Château Barbeyrolles first discovered the wine during their holidays in Provence. They then would be thrilled to rediscover the sensations of warm sunshine and blue skies as the bottles appeared on the wine lists of fine restaurants across France and around the world. From the West Indies to America, from China to Thailand, and from Japan to Malaysia, Régine has the Château Barbeyrolles banner flying high across the globe. “I am proud that our wines have earned their noble pedigree,” she says. “In 1987, with my friend Patrice de Colmont, we were among the first 12 vineyards to take part in the ‘Route des Rosés’. We all put our wines in the holds of the boats for the crossing from Saint-Tropez to St. Barts… We were winegrowers who were passionate about sailing and we were going to spread the good word about our rosé to another continent.”
Although rosé represents about 80% of her production, Régine Sumeire is “trying” to restore the balance by returning her attention to reds and whites. “After all, Provence is the land of three colors,” she smiles. Surprising for an icon of rosé? She sweeps aside the suggestion with a wave of her hand. “Wine is not just about the money, it’s an expression of an environment, a culture, and a history. And Provence can be proud of its splendid soils that are capable of producing great wines of all colors.”
If she defends people’s right to appreciate her wines “as they wish,” Régine herself is categorical: no ice cubes in the wine and serving temperature of 13-14°C to magnify its qualities. “I recommend combining Mediterranean fish with rosés and whites. A monkfish poached in a court-bouillon served on a salad, a fish with baked fennel, shrimps à la plancha, a soufflé with the full-bodied shellfish sauce… All of this goes very well with Barbeyrolles rosés. It’s also a fine choice to accompany veal or sweetbreads,” notes this renowned epicurean. Indeed, this wine virtuoso is always delighted to match wines to dishes to make the most of convivial moments.
Dividing her time between her two houses–the Tour de l’Evêque in Pierrefeu-du-Var, where her nephew Pierre-François officiates, and Barbeyrolles, a short distance from the beaches of Pampelonne–Régine admits that her profession is her passion. “I make wine, I bottle, I live each day fully,” she says. “Monitoring the growing vines, gauging the maturity of the grapes, harvesting, tasting the juice as it evolves. These are some of the different pleasures I get to enjoy throughout the year.” There must be something she doesn’t like? “Well, there’s the paperwork and the administrative work, that’s a bit of a pain,” she admits with a scowl.
As a winegrower committed to producing whites, reds, and rosés, Régine doesn’t accept the idea that any one color is more challenging to work with. “Each process is meticulous and delicate,” she says.
Evoking her winegrowing ancestry, the owner of Château Barbeyrolles can’t hide her emotion when speaking about her father. “In the twilight of his life, he told me that he had learned the trade by working with his father, and he then did the same thing and taught me,” she whispers as the sun glows on the horizon. “It is the passion that is truly passed from one generation to the next.”
While discussing what makes a good winegrower, Régine highlights the relationship with time and the inherent sense of observation, all of which must be infused with humility. “The power of observation is the key to everything. We must observe nature, respect its cycles without ever exploiting it,” says this woman who readily admits to being meticulous and demanding in her approach. “To be in a hurry or not to recognize one’s mistakes are serious defects. We work on the long term, we work for future generations. These old vines were planted by men who knew that today they would offer enormous quality and luxurious aromas.” Not replanting immediately after having pulled out the old vines, sometimes waiting up to seven years so the soil can breathe, these are some of the most important lessons from this school of patience. This summer, the 2019 rosé will be served, and it will be distinguished by its beautiful minerality and its marvelous length on the palate. “Our wines are robust and precise,” she says.
In the intimate world of lovers of great wines, Régine’s work and her approach to Pétale de Rose have transformed the perception of rosé wine. The pallor and clarity of her work give the rosé feminine values, a purity and frankness that freed it from the virile and dark codes of yore that were beginning to weigh on the wines. However, while they boast great finesse and impeccable quality, Régine’s wines aren’t intimidating and aren’t reserved for elite connoisseurs. Thanks to Régine, anyone can enjoy a rosé without being anointed an “expert.” For her, all you need to be able to do is appreciate elegance and refinement.
Régine Sumeire believes wisdom and substance are the foundation of good taste. As proof that this Provençal native has cultivated a successful philosophy, her famed Pétale de Rose rosé has turned the wine world upside down by transforming these pale pink wonders from a simple aperitif or pool-side drink to honorable wines that are found on the world’s finest tables. Régine’s life is divided between the 75 hectares of the Château de la Tour de l’Evêque, a property located on the slopes of the Maurettes hills, and the 12 hectares of Château Barbeyrolles, a magnificent, lavish estate that borders the community of Gassin.
“I bought this property in 1977,” says Régine. “After many visits all over the region, I fell in love with Barbeyrolles, which was a total ruin at the time.” As soon as she saw the estate, she could sense that the manor house and the vines could become a veritable paradise with enough hard work. Now, 43 years later, it is evident that her magnificent vision has been fulfilled.
As a host who is genuinely concerned about the happiness of her visitors, Régine gives a special owner’s tour, with a focus on the vineyard. “It’s been maintained according to the principles of biodynamic agriculture since 2009,” she explains. “We have always worked in harmony with nature; it’s tradition, it’s self-evident. In bygone times, organic methods were the only way to work the land.” It is no surprise she feels this deep connection to traditional practices; she is the daughter and granddaughter of winegrowers, and she studied history along with political science and Spanish. One example of these practices is her commitment to the manual harvest. “This is essential in the production of rosé and white wines, which are pressed in whole bunches,” she notes.
For Régine, it is difficult to overstate the importance of vineyards. “Wine is a proof of civilization,” she explains. “It is interesting that in ancient times, the Greeks and Egyptians produced wines without maceration, so they could only have been rosés. And now, at the end of the 20th century, the Spanish, Italians, and Greeks were accentuating the idea of wine as a principle of civilization.” And here in France? “At the same time, they voted in the Loi Évin (to restrict alcohol advertising),” she thunders without losing the slightest bit of her elegance.
When it comes to personal taste, Régine admits she prefers complex rosés. “I enjoy delicate wines with length and finish that can accompany a meal,” she says. “I like the idea that if tasted blind, a rosé would be difficult to distinguish from a white.” Surprisingly, she is not as concerned with the bouquet, instead focusing on the belief that wines should tell the story of their land and culture. Her Pétale de Rose rosé, which was first imagined in 1982, has a clear color, and this initially led the wine to be treated as an intruder in the world of darker pink rosés. Now, that’s all in the past and pale rosés are celebrated, although Régine notes that “the color must be extracted without brusqueness or treatment.”
Many of the loyal clients of Château Barbeyrolles first discovered the wine during their holidays in Provence. They then would be thrilled to rediscover the sensations of warm sunshine and blue skies as the bottles appeared on the wine lists of fine restaurants across France and around the world. From the West Indies to America, from China to Thailand, and from Japan to Malaysia, Régine has the Château Barbeyrolles banner flying high across the globe. “I am proud that our wines have earned their noble pedigree,” she says. “In 1987, with my friend Patrice de Colmont, we were among the first 12 vineyards to take part in the ‘Route des Rosés’. We all put our wines in the holds of the boats for the crossing from Saint-Tropez to St. Barts… We were winegrowers who were passionate about sailing and we were going to spread the good word about our rosé to another continent.”
Although rosé represents about 80% of her production, Régine Sumeire is “trying” to restore the balance by returning her attention to reds and whites. “After all, Provence is the land of three colors,” she smiles. Surprising for an icon of rosé? She sweeps aside the suggestion with a wave of her hand. “Wine is not just about the money, it’s an expression of an environment, a culture, and a history. And Provence can be proud of its splendid soils that are capable of producing great wines of all colors.”
If she defends people’s right to appreciate her wines “as they wish,” Régine herself is categorical: no ice cubes in the wine and serving temperature of 13-14°C to magnify its qualities. “I recommend combining Mediterranean fish with rosés and whites. A monkfish poached in a court-bouillon served on a salad, a fish with baked fennel, shrimps à la plancha, a soufflé with the full-bodied shellfish sauce… All of this goes very well with Barbeyrolles rosés. It’s also a fine choice to accompany veal or sweetbreads,” notes this renowned epicurean. Indeed, this wine virtuoso is always delighted to match wines to dishes to make the most of convivial moments.
Dividing her time between her two houses–the Tour de l’Evêque in Pierrefeu-du-Var, where her nephew Pierre-François officiates, and Barbeyrolles, a short distance from the beaches of Pampelonne–Régine admits that her profession is her passion. “I make wine, I bottle, I live each day fully,” she says. “Monitoring the growing vines, gauging the maturity of the grapes, harvesting, tasting the juice as it evolves. These are some of the different pleasures I get to enjoy throughout the year.” There must be something she doesn’t like? “Well, there’s the paperwork and the administrative work, that’s a bit of a pain,” she admits with a scowl.
As a winegrower committed to producing whites, reds, and rosés, Régine doesn’t accept the idea that any one color is more challenging to work with. “Each process is meticulous and delicate,” she says.
Evoking her winegrowing ancestry, the owner of Château Barbeyrolles can’t hide her emotion when speaking about her father. “In the twilight of his life, he told me that he had learned the trade by working with his father, and he then did the same thing and taught me,” she whispers as the sun glows on the horizon. “It is the passion that is truly passed from one generation to the next.”
While discussing what makes a good winegrower, Régine highlights the relationship with time and the inherent sense of observation, all of which must be infused with humility. “The power of observation is the key to everything. We must observe nature, respect its cycles without ever exploiting it,” says this woman who readily admits to being meticulous and demanding in her approach. “To be in a hurry or not to recognize one’s mistakes are serious defects. We work on the long term, we work for future generations. These old vines were planted by men who knew that today they would offer enormous quality and luxurious aromas.” Not replanting immediately after having pulled out the old vines, sometimes waiting up to seven years so the soil can breathe, these are some of the most important lessons from this school of patience. This summer, the 2019 rosé will be served, and it will be distinguished by its beautiful minerality and its marvelous length on the palate. “Our wines are robust and precise,” she says.
In the intimate world of lovers of great wines, Régine’s work and her approach to Pétale de Rose have transformed the perception of rosé wine. The pallor and clarity of her work give the rosé feminine values, a purity and frankness that freed it from the virile and dark codes of yore that were beginning to weigh on the wines. However, while they boast great finesse and impeccable quality, Régine’s wines aren’t intimidating and aren’t reserved for elite connoisseurs. Thanks to Régine, anyone can enjoy a rosé without being anointed an “expert.” For her, all you need to be able to do is appreciate elegance and refinement.